San Salvador: an alternative travel guide to Central American grit
If you Google El Salvador some mixed results come up: human rights violations, beaches, mass incarceration, new found safety, gorgeous volcanoes, or the importation of “prisoners”… El Salvador is not a perfect place, but it is one worth visiting. Politics aside, it is a country where the people welcome you with open arms, who would drop what they’re doing to help you, and one where you have a seat at the table.
In this travel guide, Naranjo Naranjo will focus on places and people who you will not see on the Bukele-backed Tik-Tok accounts and one where you will find the arts placed first before Bitcoin.
Some background: The 20th century was a tumultuous time for El Salvador, almost every decade was marked with some sort of disaster. The 30s saw an uprising of mostly poor-indigenous farmers and coffee harvesters that was shut down with has been called a genocide. The results were a silencing and erasure of culture. This led to the political and cultural tensions of the 70s, where poets and intellectuals were eventually assassinated in the civil war of the 80s. The Salvadoran Civil War has permanently changed the trajectory of Salvadoran identity. The 90s and 2000’s saw the rise of gang violence, which was quickly and swiftly ended by current leader, Nayib Bukele, in the spring and summer of 2020. This does not mean El Salvador’s history is recent, it stretches back thousands of years and has been connected with the Maya, Mexica(Aztec),and has played a part in the global trade of coffee, cacao, and balsam. Below have a guide to the city where the first cries for independence from Spain for Latin America were heard…
SAN SALVADOR:
gritty tropical surrealism
The city sits high in a valley, looking over the coast, but in the shadows of a volcano and lush green peaks, with its eastern suburbs hugging the coast of Lake Ilopango. This is a city shaped by war, class divisions, earthquakes, and tropical heat.There is much more to this place than meets the eye. In this guide you will see how this chaotic city is a hidden gem and is deserving of preservation despite constant erasure of cultural icons and sites. It is a rough place, yet one full of absurd daily scenes such as Christian lingerie shops, street performers juggling balls of fire in traffic, and men on motorcycles delivering anything from livestock to dozens of coconuts. For those interested in mid-century-tropical architecture, you’ve come to the right place. For those who know, you can get the true Jodorowsky experience here. This a city for photographers, document what you see before it is paved over.
TO EAT AND DRINK:
Pupusas of Olocuilta- midway between the airport and San Salvador. Olocuilta is referred to as the birthplace of pupusas, the national dish of the country. Pick any stand or restaurant, you will not be disappointed. Try them made with rice! You’ll eat well for about $5 or less…
Luma- a sourdough bakery renowned for their bread, coffee, and quesadilla. Quesadilla is not what you may be used to, its a sweet and savory cheese bread often made of rice and is eaten for breakfast. Their quesadilla is unique in that is a cross between quesadilla and creme brûlée. Perfect spot for brunch. Located in San Benito.
Hermanos de Leche- three brothers run this ceviche spot. A small menu of ceviches, crudos, and other seafoods. Their smoked passionfruit ceviche is worth the trip. Perfect for dinner or as a pre-drinks spot. Located in Escalon.
El Xolo- words cannot fully explain this experience… located inside The Museum of Anthropology, El Xolo is fine dining experience focusing on Salvadoran cuisine. There are no wrong options to pick from on the menu. But we suggest ordering their tamal de chocolate, no need for explanations, just order it, and maybe order another to-go. Reservation recommended. Located in San Benito.
Finca Sylvestris- started by chef, organic farmer, and overall dream of a being, Maru Molina. Finca Sylvestris is a romantic farm-to-table experience set along the slopes of San Salvador Volcano overlooking the crowded city in the valley below. Reservations mandatory, please check the link to reserve. Located on San Salvador Volcano.
Mia Pizza- this unassuming spot may not seem too glamorous on the outside, but founded in 1979, this spot has not updated their interiors since. Step back into time all while 80s dance music plays. Open for breakfast as well. Located in Centro Historico.
La Dalia- walk up the winding staircase and you’re in Art Nouveau heaven. A perfect place to cool off with a Pilsner beer and watch as people play pool or look down at the plaza below. Located in Centro Historico.
Coffee- nowhere in El Salvador will you encounter a bad cup, even if its instant and served in a styrofoam cup while the sun beats down. We recommend: Carajo Coffee, Sprezztura, Narcisa, Crafters Coffee, Alquimia, Cafe Fulanos.
Note: Veganism has taken off in El Salvador, many spots offer vegan options or are 100% vegan such as Carajo or Narcisa.
TO SEE:
Museo Nacional de Antropologia (MUNA- Here you will discover the ancient history of El Salvador. This is a perfect place to start your stay in El Salvador.
Museo de Arte de El Salvador (MARTE)- the only official museum of art in El Salvador. Comprising of art from the 19th to 21st century. Here you see the voices often overlooked in Salvadoran history. Open Thursday-Sunday 10pm-4pm.