San Salvador: the valley of tropical grit
SAN SALVADOR:
The city sits high in a valley, looking over the coast, in the shadows of a volcano and lush green peaks, with its eastern suburbs hugging the coast of Lake Ilopango. This is a city shaped by war, class divisions, earthquakes, and tropical heat.There is much more to this place than meets the eye. In this guide you will see how this chaotic city is a hidden gem and is deserving of preservation despite constant erasure of cultural icons and sites. It is a rough place, yet one full of absurd daily scenes such as Christian lingerie shops, street performers juggling balls of fire in traffic, and men on motorcycles delivering anything from livestock to dozens of coconuts. For those interested in mid-century-tropical architecture, you’ve come to the right place. For those who know, you can get the true Jodorowsky experience here. This a city for photographers, document what you see before it is paved over.
Here are just a few of the spots we love:
Centro Historico, San Salvador
TO EAT AND DRINK:
Pupusas of Olocuilta- midway between the airport and San Salvador. Olocuilta is referred to as the birthplace of pupusas, the national dish of the country. Pick any stand or restaurant, you will not be disappointed. Try them made with rice! You’ll eat well for about $5 or less…
Luma- a sourdough bakery renowned for their bread, coffee, and quesadilla. Quesadilla is not what you may be used to, its a sweet and savory cheese bread often made of rice and is eaten for breakfast. Their quesadilla is unique in that is a cross between quesadilla and creme brûlée. Perfect spot for brunch. Located in San Benito.
Hermanos de Leche- three brothers run this ceviche spot. A small menu of ceviches, crudos, and other seafoods. Their smoked passionfruit ceviche is worth the trip. Perfect for dinner or as a pre-drinks spot. Located in Escalon.
El Xolo- words cannot fully explain this experience… located inside The Museum of Anthropology, El Xolo is fine dining experience focusing on Salvadoran cuisine. There are no wrong options to pick from on the menu. But we suggest ordering their tamal de chocolate, no need for explanations, just order it, and maybe order another to-go. Reservation recommended. Located in San Benito.
tamal de chocolate at El Xolo
Finca Sylvestris- started by chef, organic farmer, and overall dream of a being, Maru Molina. Finca Sylvestris is a romantic farm-to-table experience set along the slopes of San Salvador Volcano overlooking the crowded city in the valley below. Reservations mandatory, please check their Instagram to reserve. Located on San Salvador Volcano.
Mia Pizza- this unassuming spot may not seem too glamorous on the outside, but founded in 1979, this spot has not updated their interiors since. Step back into time all while 80s dance music plays. Open for breakfast as well. Located in Centro Historico. Their budin/bread pudding and coffee are 10/10.
Mia Pizza, with a facade that is 10/10
La Dalia- walk up the winding staircase and you’re in Art Nouveau heaven. A perfect place to cool off with a Pilsner beer and watch as people play pool or look down at the plaza below. Located in Centro Historico.
La Dalia, Centro Historico
Coffee- nowhere in El Salvador will you encounter a bad cup, even if its instant and served in a styrofoam cup while the sun beats down. We recommend: Carajo Coffee, Sprezztura, Narcisa, Crafters Coffee, Alquimia, Cafe Fulanos.
TO SEE:
Museo Nacional de Antropologia (MUNA- Here you will discover the ancient history of El Salvador. This is a perfect place to start your stay in El Salvador. Near Escalon and San Benito.
Museo de Arte de El Salvador (MARTE)- the only official museum of art in El Salvador. Comprising of art from the 19th to 21st century. Here you see the voices often overlooked in Salvadoran history. Located in San Benito.
Iglesia El Rosario: a perfect spot to get a look into the tropical modernism that permeates this city. Designed by Ruben Martinez, this church has housed worshippers and student led revolutionaries. Located in Centro Historico, across the park from La Dalia.
Iglesia El Rosario
TO EXPERIENCE:
For starters, San Salvador is a perfect to call home while in El Salvador. Located 30 minutes from the beach, an hour from cloud forests blanketed with coffee fields, and an hour from Mayan pyramids. However, this city has a few things to experience as well.
Architectural Tour of Centro Historico with Vintexture: get the full story behind the foundation of the city. Sofi of Vintexture leads tours that focus on colonial architecture, mid century modern, and the colonial revival architecture of this chaotic sector of the city. You can book your solo or group tour here.
Panchimalco: This high mountain village boasts one of the last remaining communities of Nahua speakers and views of San Salvador in the valley below. Its central cathedral is a place where indigenous traditions meld into Catholic faith. If you plan to visit, make sure to arrive (by bus or Uber) before 5pm, as traffic becomes overwhelming since it's a popular spot for locals to spend their evenings.
San Salvador Volcano: Its shadow looms over the city, covered in lush green jungle, you have a chance to hike to the top and see the heart of the volcano. While you’re there be sure to end your trip at Finca Sylvestris.
Delirio: artist lead space ran by Carlos Violante. From ceramics, cocktails, matcha, print making, and vintage sourced goods, Delirio is a space where you see El Salvadors queer creatives come to life. Studio visits can be made here, but Delirio holds monthly open studio events for all to experience.
Panchimalco, a world away from city chaos.